Chef Tim Andriola

Eight years ago, Tim Andriola was completing work on his Masters Degree at Florida International University. For a course called Restaurant Development, he had to open a restaurant anywhere in Miami-Dade — on paper. He chose a location in Sunny Isles Beach. Four years later, while seeking a real location for his own restaurant, that paper dream address became available. It’s been another four years since Andriola took over that location and named his restaurant Timo.

Timo has the look and style, but nowhere near the price tag, of a dinner on South Beach. And that, not to mention Andriola’s exceptional menu, makes a trip to Sunny Isles mandatory. Timo is a conundrum; a modern Old World trattoria with a rustic wood-burning oven contrasting the clean lines of the room. And a menu that maintains that mix of eras.

A perfect example would be the Bruschetta ($12). We’ve been eating the diced tomatoes and olive oil bruschetta literally for years. But you won’t find that at Timo. Our crostini was layered with grilled pears, a little arugula and a handsome slice of prosciutto, then drizzled with truffle honey. It was a beautiful combination of sweet, sharp and savory. Sweetbreads ($13) were done saltimbocca style. Surprisingly tender, they were wrapped with prosciutto, then grilled to a crisp cover and served in a little veal stock. Pan Roasted Mussels ($9) practically overflowed their bowl, the sweet shellfish sharing the space with spicy Italian sausage and roasted red peppers. The Roasted Duck Salad ($12) was exceptional. The breast was cooked medium rare and sliced thin, surrounding spinach that had been sautéed with a little duck confit to keep it rich and moist. Duck liver topped an accompanying crostini.

There is no such thing as a simple pasta plate at Timo. The Mezzaluna ($19) was stuffed with escarole as well as ricotta, to give it crunch. Red peppers and creamy fava beans added supplemental flavors. Rigatoni ($19) shared a bowl with mild veal sausage and wild mushrooms, but it was the melting buffalo mozzarella that made the dish sing. For the traditionalist, there was the homemade Ricotta Manicotti ($19), served piping hot, with fresh tomatoes and Italian provolone. The Blackened Spaghetti Fra Diavolo ($20) has been on the menu since the beginning, but has gone through a few changes over the years. Ours was filled with large tasty shrimp and tender calamari tubes in a mildly spicy sauce. The Pappardelle ($18) has also gone through changes. What once had been blended with duck now boasts chicken livers — a decidedly unique pasta taste — along with wild mushrooms and pancetta. Andriola explained that his market loves all types of liver. And besides, the dish works.

Timo offers a four-course tasting menu ($58). But you can order the entrée from there as a special. Ours was the Tenderloin of Veal ($38), delicious, fork-tender slices served with French horn mushrooms over a perfect foie gras risotto. Florida Pompano ($26) featured two fresh, light fillets served with sweet red peppers and long-stemmed Roman artichokes. The enormous Salmon fillet ($23) was slow roasted to keep it moist and was paired with red and golden beets in a warm citrus vinaigrette that gave it a whisper of sweetness. The Charcoaled Rib Eye ($29) — a large cowboy cut — was grilled to perfection and topped with a black truffle sauce. Sharing the platter were roasted fingerling potatoes with a jacket of melted Parmesan.

If, even with all that food, you need a side order, go for the Artichokes, Mushrooms & Onions ($8), whose warm marinade would spice up any dish.

Desserts were delish ($7 each). The soft splendor of a honey-roasted pear worked well in counterpoint to its kaitafi nest. Mango sponge cake soaked up its raspberry sauce. Chocolate Cake had the expected liquid center. And the Zuccotto was soft and mousse-y with a crunch of toasted hazelnuts.

Timo shouldn’t be considered a neighborhood restaurant just for the folks in Sunny Isles. Think of it as a destination restaurant. It’s a description it deserves.

Timo ADDRESS: 17624 Collins Ave., Sunny Isles PHONE: 305-936-1008 HOURS: Monday through Friday lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Sunday through Thursday 6 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday until 11 p.m. FOOD: Italian SERVICE: Pleasant, personable staff with all the right answers PRICES: Appetizers $7 to $17, entrées from $18 to $29 WINES: An impressive complement of domestic and international labels at varying price points. ATMOSPHERE: Upscale yet lighthearted with a broad mix in clientele. RESERVATIONS: Suggested CREDIT CARDS: All major credit cards