Hot Off the Grill

Top Chef contestant Howie Kleinberg set to open Bulldog Barbecue

By Jordan Melnick

Howie Kleinberg

Less than a year after his unvictorious departure from Top Chef season 3, Howie Kleinberg is close to opening his own Miami restaurant, Bulldog Barbecue. Fans of the show will no doubt get the reference, as Kleinberg was the often pugnacious, stocky guy who got into not a few barking matches with his fellow contestants.

Relieved of the burden of having to woo Top Chef judges Tom Colicchio and Anthony Bourdain with haute cuisine, Kleinberg is excited at the chance to wow everyday Miamians with simple, no-nonsense food.

“There’s something to be said about someone who is a trained chef bringing his skills to everyday food,” Kleinberg said. “The idea is to do the best possible brisket and the best possible baby back ribs with all respect paid to the quality of the ingredients.”

With that goal in mind, Kleinberg visited some of America’s barbecue meccas — the Carolinas, Tennessee — for inspiration, though he is quick to add the food at Bulldog Barbecue will not be strictly traditional.

“It’s going to be ‘New Barbecue,’” he said. “Basically, a lot of our sense of what a restaurant should be, but with Southern flare.”

Kleinberg’s concept for the restaurant is affordable food that “a lot of people can come in and enjoy,” he said. “Fast, casual — not necessarily fine dining.”

In many ways, the philosophy is a reaction to his time as a Top Chef contestant.

“I wanted to get away from the idea that food has to be taken so seriously,” he said.  “There is something to be said about going back to simpler food, simpler techniques, honest everyday food — especially with the economy the way it is. People want to be comfortable. They want to be able to eat good food without spending an arm and a leg to do it.”

A Miami native, Kleinberg was the local favorite while on Top Chef season 3, based right here in his hometown. The food at Bulldog Barbecue, however, will feature only subtle references to South Florida cuisine.

“Miami will always be a part of my cooking,” said Kleinberg, former executive chef at The Food Gang in Surfside. “The Latin flavors seep into my seasoning. Also, from working under so many Latin chefs, I find myself eager to cook pork. Barbecue is pork in the South, so there’s a tie-in there.”

Kleinberg is also looking to appeal to South Florida’s health nuts.

“We’re not going to do healthy barbecue per se, but we do want to offer salads and some lighter dishes. We know people here are very conscious of what they’re eating.” 

As for the decor, Kleinberg says it’s going to be “edgy, a little bit rock ’n’ roll.” There will be a stainless steel bar serving beer and wine where people will be able to see into a semi-open kitchen.

But Bulldog Barbecue’s grand opening is still at least three months away and, according to Kleinberg, there is still a lot of work to do.

“I’m excited, but day to day you have to hold it in,” he said. “It gets frustrating at times, dealing with everything. I’m saving my excitement for when the smokers are in place.”

And with so much to do before firing up those smokers, Kleinberg has little time to dwell on his days as a Top Chef contestant.

“Top Chef should be a footnote on a chef’s career, not a headline,” he said. “I went on so people would know my name. You’ve seen me. You know my name. Great. Now come taste my food.”

Bulldog Barbecue will be located at Northeast 154th Street and Biscayne Boulevard, North Miami, in the smallish space formerly occupied by Sun City Crepes. Though he has not set his menu, Kleinberg says entrees will not exceed $22 and there will be sandwiches in the $7 to $8 range.

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