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This is not the Prezzo Martini Bar and Grill you
remember. New Chef/Owner Kal Abdalla — most noted for his 20
years at The Forge — came in 11 months ago and made some
changes. He has enhanced the wine list and upgraded the décor.
Tables are now cloth-covered and the walls bear new artwork,
some the chef’s own. The room is still part dining room and part
martini bar, with the dark wood bar a strong focal point.
Most of the
changes are in the menu itself. Many items remain from the old
Prezzo, since regulars expect that. But it makes for a most
bizarre blend having spinach dip and mussels, hamburgers and
roast duck, a fish sandwich and seafood risotto on the same
page. However, looking around, we could see that all items were
being served. So let’s just say Prezzo has something for
everyone.
An intriguing
evening special was a simply titled Mixed Green Salad ($12). A
thin belt of sliced cucumber wrapped a bed of mixed greens,
julienne apples and honey-roasted pecans drizzled with a
Roquefort dressing enlivened with cilantro, fresh thyme, basil
and a subtle taste of jalapeño. Enjoy the homemade breads with
the salad. Unlike the standard basket of rolls, this was a
platter that included some of the finest focaccia and flatbreads
encircling a whole roasted garlic bulb. Better than butter any
day. The Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes ($14) were of Maryland crabmeat
with a bit of grainy Pommery mustard, specks of jalapeño, yellow
and red peppers and cream. Eliciting rich flavors from the crab
was a fruit salsa of papaya, pineapple, mint and honey. Sweet,
but with a little acid, courtesy of lemon and a bit of rice
vinegar. Mediterranean Mussels ($11) were fresh and sweet,
steamed and served in a thyme broth with roasted tomatoes,
garlic, white wine and lemon. The appetizer of Escargot ($11)
was artwork. The mix of snails with Portobello and shiitake
mushrooms baked in simple garlic butter was topped by a light
and flaky puff pastry dome. It looked like an igloo and kept the
ingredients hot at table.
Angel Hair
Pasta ($15) can be difficult to get right because of the
thinness of the strands. Abdalla’s garnered high praise,
especially when he prepared it with sautéed onions, garlic,
fresh tomatoes, roasted tomatoes and sun-dried tomatoes. Each
enhanced the fineness of the pasta without smothering it. The
Fusilli ($19) was deliciously rich, with sautéed shiitake,
Portobello and crimini mushrooms added to a veal stock/port wine
sauce made even more buttery with added cream. Fettuccini
Bolognese ($18) featured onions, garlic, carrots, celery and
roasted tomatoes in a light beef gravy.
Char Grilled
Skirt Steak ($24) was marinated overnight in ginger, garlic,
soy, cilantro and sesame oil to give it an exceptional flavor
and tenderness. The baby green beans and mash were a nice
pairing. Abdalla’s Roasted Duck ($28), one must be warned,
arrives looking like it’s been burned to a cinder. Actually,
he’s caramelized the skin, baking away the fat at a high heat
and, supposedly, making the meat more tender. The duck, however,
while its flavor was beyond compare, was one of the toughest
birds we’ve come across. Even the braised Swiss chard with
California dates and the basmati rice couldn’t help it. On the
other hand, the Pan Seared Sea Bass ($28) was light and tasty,
served on a bed of broccoli puree and surrounded by fingerling
potatoes. The saffron beurre blanc was a quality finish.
Prezzo has live
entertainment every night, from guitarists to singers. Patrons
get involved and later in the evening many are on the floor,
dancing.
Desserts — all
prepared by Abdalla — were excellent and go well with the
entertainment. The Warm Flourless Chocolate Cake ($8) with
vanilla ice cream was light and airy, almost like a soufflé. The
Crème Brûlée ($8), in a pecan tuile basket, hid a treasure of
fresh berries. Grand Marnier Chocolate Mousse ($7) was dark with
chocolate and livened with lemon zest. Our favorite was the
Apple Tart ($8): razor-sliced apples in caramel sauce,
surrounded by puff pastry and topped with melting ice cream,
direct from Prezzo’s brick oven.
Abdalla is
still refining his menu. The room is attractive, the
entertainment is top-notch and Prezzo should be a shining light
in Aventura.
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Prezzo
ADDRESS: 18831 Biscayne Blvd., Loehmann’s Fashion
Island, Aventura
PHONE: 305-931-5775
HOURS: Open seven days: lunch noon to 3:30 p.m; dinner 4
to 11:30 p.m. and until midnight on weekends
FOOD: Mediterranean with international flavors
SERVICE: Slow and ill-prepared to answer questions
PRICES: Appetizers $9 to $28, entrées $12 to $39
WINES: A concise list with varying price points
ATMOSPHERE: Lively
RESERVATIONS: Suggested
CREDIT CARDS: All major credit cards |
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