A rare moment of rest at the bar at Clarke’s.

In the culinary world of South Beach, where restaurants are as fleeting as an August lightning storm, Laura Cullen is betting that her Irish neighborhood bar will become an institution. Right now, though, Clarke’s is barely a toddler, turning just 2 years old next week.

“South Beach is a fickle town for restaurants. Everyone wants to be at the newest place. Even the locals here are transient,” says Cullen, who opened the “south of Fifth” neighborhood spot on Sept. 5, 2005 and plans to mark its second anniversary to the day with a celebration on Wednesday.

The eatery, with its brass rail mahogany bar, wall shelves lined bookcase-style with liquor and wine, and handsome vintage-style lamps emitting a gas-like glow, is an anomaly here; there’s not a palm tree, half-naked server or mojito in sight (although I’m sure Mickey Maher, the Irish bartender, can readily mix one).

But Cullen is an anomaly as well. In her late 30s, she is the sole proprietor of Clarke’s. Ever since she was a child, her dream was to own “the perfect restaurant,” she said. She has the right genes; up until last October, when they retired and shut the doors, Cullen’s parents, Barry and Deidre Cullen, ran New York City’s legendary Sazerac House, where regulars once included John Belushi, Quentin Crisp and Norman Mailer. “I grew up in a restaurant environment,” noted the tradition-conscious younger Cullen, who serves up “Sazerac House Crab Cakes” here.

Cullen came down to Miami for school and never left. With a hospitality degree from Florida International University tucked under her arm, she went to work selling wine and spirits. But she had her dream. “I was in sales, bopping around, and I saw this little take-out place and then, one day, I drove by and the place was vacant. I knew this would be the perfect location,” she recalls. She also wanted it to be reasonably priced because “you can spend a lot eating in South Beach,” she notes. At Clarke’s, you can get a New York Pretzel for $2.95, and other starters, like Traditional Buffalo Style Chicken Wings ($8.95) and Steamed Mediterranean Mussels ($11.95). There are also soups, salads and an array of entrées, ranging from Grilled Chicken Paillard ($14.95) to Filet Mignon ($26.95). Pub fare includes Fish & Chips ($14.95), Shepherd’s Pie ($14.95), Bangers & Mash ($13.95) and, of course, Corned Beef & Cabbage. Portions are generous; if you have room for dessert, they are $6 each and include Clarke’s Bread Pudding Soufflé and Banoffee Pie, an Irish treat made from bananas and cream. The former wine-and-spirits saleswoman-turned-restaurateur takes pride in offering an impressive wine list, as well as a wide selection of beer.

Clarke’s also inaugurates its second year by starting a Sunday brunch menu on Sept. 9, with choices including traditional American fare, as well as Irish Oatmeal Crème Brulee ($6.95), Corned Beef Hash & Eggs ($10.95) and a gut-busting Traditional Irish Breakfast ($14.95.) (The famous Sazarec Eggs will also be on the menu, of course!)

Seated at Clarke’s the other night was John Traynor, who comes here several nights a week with his wife, Jane. They’ve lived in the area for eight years, and John was surprised one day when an old friend standing outside the door of the new restaurant hailed him. It was the bartender, whom the Traynors knew from Maher’s previous gig at Smith & Wollensky. Maher invited them in, and they’ve virtually never left. “We came in and we were hooked. It’s a great neighborhood restaurant. The food is incomparable, the staff has no attitude and we love it. We feel like we’re in New York,” says Jane.

As for Cullen, she’s found that “running a restaurant is harder than I ever imagined. It takes everything out of you, physically and emotionally.” On the other hand, she notes, “When the place is full and people are having a good time, there’s nothing like it.”

Clarke’s, located at 840 First St. (between Alton Road and Washington Avenue), celebrates its second anniversary on Wednesday, Sept. 5, with all drinks $2 and complimentary snacks. Call 305-538-9885.