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Irving Matutina has the goods and he
brings them to the Port of Miami every weekend.
Photo by Danny Brody |
This morning, I’m riding in a small
truck from Miami Shores to the Port of Miami with the aromas
of freshly prepared Filipino delicacies like Pork Chocolate
and stir-fried squid permeating the small cabin. I’m in a
rolling restaurant, or munch-wagon, as I like to call them,
heading for the busy port to serve the hundreds of cruise
ship workers, many of whom are Filipinos. Of course, one
needn’t work at the port to sample the food from Irving
Matutina’s truck, but few “civilians” ever do.
At 9 a.m.
Saturday, Royal Caribbean’s Liberty of the Seas, a
3,600-plus passenger behemoth, sends its crew ashore for a
few hours. Crew members quickly line up in the baking
parking lot of Terminal F to get some Pancit Noodles and
Pork Adobo, national dishes of the Philippines and the top
sellers.
Matutina
piles plates high with Pork Chocolate (Dinuguan), which, as
you can imagine, contains no chocolate. It is named for its
chocolate-y color, which comes from stewing pork meat chunks
and bits of stomach in pig’s blood. (Back home it would
include intestines as well, an ingredient that, according to
Matutina, is difficult to find in Miami.) The result is a
tangy and richly fulfilling treat, a perfect counterpoint to
another popular dish, that of perfectly cooked sweet head-on
shrimp. The stir-fried squid (three-inch-long whole tubes,
not cut-up rings), purple and spongy in their rich seasoning
broth of tomatoes, vinegar, onions and garlic — is also a
big seller on this day.
The
Philippines is, of course, an island nation, and Irving’s
offerings from the sea include Bangus (fried milk fish) and
Galung-Gung (fried round scad, a local fish from there),
both simply prepared and served alongside Ginisa Mongo,
sautéed mung beans slowly cooked with spinach and zucchini
blossoms that Matutina and family grow themselves in a
little garden behind the store. And of course there is the
Filipino version of the spring roll, Lumpia, another
national dish. The diners sit on milk crates under an
umbrella and wash their meals down with coconut-water
tallboys.
Additionally, Irving does some business selling packaged
products from the Philippines, like those cute little
puddings and bright yellow cups of instant chocolate or
coconut/corn-flavored porridges. But the focus is on the
freshly prepared delicacies like the Torta Talong, which is
like a Spanish tortilla but made with Chinese eggplant
instead of potatoes. Longaniza, a fire-red sausage both
spicy and sweet, is served alongside the Torta with a
pickled onion and tomato relish that perfectly complements
those tastes.
After the
last customer is served, at about 3 p.m., Matutina folds
down the stainless steel doors of his truck. On the ride
back uptown, we talk about the Filipino delicacy Si-Si,
which is always homemade and often reserved for catered
events and parties: basically boiled pig ears, which are
then dried, seasoned well with vinegar, soy, sugar, garlic,
shallots, carrots and tarragon, then broiled and cut into
little strips — a great snack with a cold beer or a drink.
Just the thing after a hot day at the docks.
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Location:
Parking lot of Terminal F at Port of Miami, 1015 N.
America Way, Miami. Off-season hours: 9 a.m.
to 3 p.m. Friday to Sunday. Menu: All dishes
$3, Rice $1. |