Cheeky tacos from Orale! Photos by Danny Brody

“Once I complained bitterly about the absence of good Mexican food in Miami. Where were the damn tacos? A friend from Mexico City took pity on me. He took my notepad and almost reverently, in silence, wrote “Orale!” and an address in Coral Gables, and told me these two guys from Oaxaca were the answer to all my problems.

The sign on the Orale! taqueria truck says “Tacos Suaves,” and the proof is in the tortilla: corn, of course, or as it’s been called, “El Sagrado Maiz.” The fillings range from the merely excellent, like moist Pollo, or spicy Chorizo, to the superlative Lengua de Res, a perfect example of the classic tongue. The Al Pastor has an unusual, almost golden raisiny sweetness, and Carne Asada de Res, marinated and grilled chunks of beef, is juicy and smoky. The fillings are made the night before, so they have a robust blend of flavors.

Then there are the tacos transcendent. Barbacoa de Borrego is tender lamb that has a distinctive wild game flavor. Like the popular Al Pastor, this may be influenced by a Lebanese preparation. The Carnitas de Cerdo taste moist and tender, and have the aroma of pork stewed long and slow. Excellent, but not for the faint of heart, are the Tripa de Res — ­­clean and hot, not mushy, but definitely tripe — and the Chicharron (crisp pork fat). Be brave.

Now, if you’ve eaten at any haute cuisine or hip restaurant lately, you’ve seen some kind of cheek on the menu — veal, beef, pig, even fish cheeks are hot. Orale is ahead of the curve with Cachete de Res, a dense and flavorful meat that has spent a long time in the slow-cooker. The humble cheek used to be a peasant staple; it’s now elevated to star status in haute temples like Mario Batali’s Babbo in New York. Orale brings the cheek back to its earthy origins.

Suadero is a thin cut of meat that hangs from the breast bone of a cow. It’s very similar in texture and taste to a delicate version of a rib — there is an unmistakable rib aroma and flavor that will make you want to really get your face into this one. It is Orale’s best-selling taco. The public has spoken.

After you get your tacos, squirt on one of the salsas from the squeeze bottles on the front of the truck. There is the Roja Suave (mild red), Verde Mediana Picante (medium green, which is actually pretty hot) and Extra Picante Chile Habanero (needs no translation). I stick with the mild, as it is always high noon when I’m eating here, and there’s nowhere to hide from the sun.

There are also the crunchy toppings: the traditional pico de gallo (mild), salsa verde (fairly spicy), whole jalapeño peppers (do not try this at home — although to a Mexican, it’s kind of like a New Yorker putting a pickle spear on a hot dog, no big deal!) and the radish slices, which really freshen up everything. Squeeze on a little lime, and you’re set.

When your tacos are complete, you pay Enriqueta, the nice lady in the truck, where you can also get your Jarritos (Mexican sodas). I like the Tamarindo — it’s not too sweet, and just a little bit tart.

Now go and find some shade.

Orale Location: SW 28th Street, just east of 37th Avenue in Coral Gables. Hours: 8:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Saturdays and 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sundays. Menu: Tacos $2.50, Quesadilla $3.50-$4, Jarritos $1.25.