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Photos courtesy of Santo |
There is quite a bit going on at
Santo. You can dine in a warm and casually elegant room or
sit outside on Lincoln Road Mall and people-watch. You can
gather around a bustling bar or slip into the huge,
back-room Performance Lounge after midnight and listen to
live music until 5 a.m.
Santo’s
menu has changed in the 10 weeks since Executive Chef Cory
Smith left the now-defunct Pacific Time to join the eatery.
Think world cuisine with traces of Asian and Latin flavors.
As the self-trained Smith explained, “Everybody is from
somewhere else, so we try to touch on several parts of the
globe.”
The menu
offers several creative twists on old favorites. Smith’s
Venison Carpaccio ($16) is first rolled in Nutella hazelnut
cream, then in crushed espresso beans. No, don’t think of it
as a beef tiramisu. Rather, the venison has a gentle mocha
aroma to it. The meat is seared, thinly sliced and then
treated with a little hazelnut oil and truffle oil. The Tuna
Duo ($17) is another favorite, with sushi-quality tuna
prepared tataki style — that is, marinated in a citrus ponzu
and crusted with black and white sesame seeds and a little
nori seaweed — then barely pan-seared. A fresh tuna tartare
tower mixed with a bit of Asian slaw reminiscent of a
pickled kimchee and finished with an avocado puree and
pickled ginger accompanies the tataki with three dipping
sauces: sweet ginger soy, sweet and spicy Asian chili, and
wasabi Dijon. But the tuna is quality enough to enjoy
without sauce. The Maryland-style Crab Cakes ($15) are tasty
and almost all lump crabmeat, though we like ours with more
lump. However, the zesty rémoulade offered a nice accent.
The Roasted Balsamic Pear Salad ($13) stands out with wild
greens enhanced by candied walnuts, feta cheese and fresh
tomatoes. The roasted pear quarters served in a balsamic
glaze really give the dish life, and the scallion
vinaigrette provides a nice contrast to their sweetness.
The Carrot
Ginger Sea Scallops ($33) are plump and succulent. Fresh
scallops are lightly dusted with cornmeal, then pan-seared
and finished in the oven. Smith believes the light and sweet
carrot ginger broth goes well with seafood, and we would
have to agree. Plus, the addition of horseradish mashed
potato puree brings out the flavor of the carrots and the
ginger. The Pork Osso Bucco ($33) doesn’t fare as well. The
hearty four-inch shank is braised for four hours in a demi-glaze
and is as tender as pork can be, but the sun-dried tomato
risotto is thick and gummy, as if cooked too long, and
lowers the quality of the dish. Compared with the oversized
scallops and the tender pork, the Lamb T-Bones ($37) are
surprisingly small. They offer a beautiful flavor, finished
with a butter of shallots, parsley, lemon juice and salt.
But, unfortunately, they were undercooked on our visit and
what little tender meat they offered was offset by tough
fascia. The Asian Duck Orange ($34) is a wonderful start,
with duck breast marinated in orange liqueur, cinnamon,
nutmeg, allspice and cloves, then pan-seared and served with
two sweet sauces. However, the wrapper of the accompanying
fried duck wonton — much like a spring roll stuffed with
rich pulled duck, celery, leeks and chives — gets soft and
chewy sitting in the huckleberry gastrique. The Fried
Buttery Gnocchi ($8) side sinks like lead pellets and the
tasteless herbed brown butter sauce does nothing to enhance
them.
Smith, who
is also the pastry chef, offers a variety of desserts, from
a Chocolate Soufflé ($10) with a hint of Jack Daniels in a
creamy center, to a decadent Black Forest Baked Alaska ($12)
— a meringue-wrapped ice cream pie with an Oreo cookie
crust, chocolate ice cream, chocolate cake, chocolate sauce,
chocolate chips and a raspberry coulis — to a flaky Cinnamon
Apple Tart ($10) and a Banana Walnut Sushi ($10) with a
banana dipped in chocolate, rolled in walnuts, then cooled
and sliced like sushi with strands of candied ginger.
Santo
offers a reduced-price Miami Spice menu until the end of
September.
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Santo Restaurant & Lounge
ADDRESS: 430 Lincoln Road, South Beach
PHONE: 305-532-2882
HOURS: Tuesday through Saturday, lunch 11:30 a.m. to
5:30 p.m.; dinner 6 to 11 p.m. (or midnight on
weekends)
FOOD: World Cuisine
SERVICE: Excellent
PRICES: Appetizers $8 to $17, entrées $28 to $40
WINES: Choice selection of domestic and
international labels
ATMOSPHERE: Stylish and contemporary
RESERVATIONS: Recommended
CREDIT CARDS: All major credit cards |