Art Review

Lights, Camera, Art

 

Take On Me

The next two weeks could prove to be an entertaining main event for Miami-land politics. One now unchallenged City Commissioner could soon be in the ring of another muddy campaign, potentially with some (literally) battle-hardened politicos. According to him, he’s ready.

 

Adaptation

Tired of lost-in-the-mail invitations to the big-ticket art-market shindig, Art Miami relocates and reschedules to crash the Basel Party. And they say it's gonna be a ‘whole new fair.’

 

NEWS

 

Miami Beach

For just $95 million, the Miami Heart Institute can be converted into a park. Beach voters will get to decide in November when, coincidentally, they get to pick who will be the next mayor. As for that hospital rezoning of hospital district idea — well, that will be sometime after November.

 

Miami

The state now owns the Marjory Stoneman Douglas house. The Coconut Grove Village Council would like it to own the lot next to it, too.

 

Sunny Isles Beach

Want to be a commissioner? Your chance is coming  soon.

 

Surfside

Sure pump stations prevent flooding, but one activist wonders why they can’t be buried underground.

 

Murmurs

Remembering Joe, pulling for Alex and watching Timoney.

 

COLUMNS

 

The 411

They say the first step to treating alcoholism is admitting you have a problem. Kris Conesa, however, is only willing to admit that hooch transports him to an altered state of reality inhabited by Rachael Ray, Elaine Lancaster and Gloria Estefan.

 

Wakefield

Money, development, politics, rich people—all the ingredients to a delicious drama. And its being served up at Miami City Hall.

 

Bound

The title of Charlie Huston’s latest novel is The Shotgun Rule. So why hasn’t John Hood heard about this writer until now?

 

Groundwork

The vultures are circling in cyberspace for overvalued properties owned by our local celebrities.

 

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Chow  

New Twists on Old Favorites

Santo’s Ever-Changing Menu Boasts Asian and Latin Flavors

By Mark Goldberg

Photos courtesy of Santo

There is quite a bit going on at Santo. You can dine in a warm and casually elegant room or sit outside on Lincoln Road Mall and people-watch. You can gather around a bustling bar or slip into the huge, back-room Performance Lounge after midnight and listen to live music until 5 a.m.

Santo’s menu has changed in the 10 weeks since Executive Chef Cory Smith left the now-defunct Pacific Time to join the eatery. Think world cuisine with traces of Asian and Latin flavors. As the self-trained Smith explained, “Everybody is from somewhere else, so we try to touch on several parts of the globe.”

The menu offers several creative twists on old favorites. Smith’s Venison Carpaccio ($16) is first rolled in Nutella hazelnut cream, then in crushed espresso beans. No, don’t think of it as a beef tiramisu. Rather, the venison has a gentle mocha aroma to it. The meat is seared, thinly sliced and then treated with a little hazelnut oil and truffle oil. The Tuna Duo ($17) is another favorite, with sushi-quality tuna prepared tataki style — that is, marinated in a citrus ponzu and crusted with black and white sesame seeds and a little nori seaweed — then barely pan-seared. A fresh tuna tartare tower mixed with a bit of Asian slaw reminiscent of a pickled kimchee and finished with an avocado puree and pickled ginger accompanies the tataki with three dipping sauces: sweet ginger soy, sweet and spicy Asian chili, and wasabi Dijon. But the tuna is quality enough to enjoy without sauce. The Maryland-style Crab Cakes ($15) are tasty and almost all lump crabmeat, though we like ours with more lump. However, the zesty rémoulade offered a nice accent. The Roasted Balsamic Pear Salad ($13) stands out with wild greens enhanced by candied walnuts, feta cheese and fresh tomatoes. The roasted pear quarters served in a balsamic glaze really give the dish life, and the scallion vinaigrette provides a nice contrast to their sweetness.

The Carrot Ginger Sea Scallops ($33) are plump and succulent. Fresh scallops are lightly dusted with cornmeal, then pan-seared and finished in the oven. Smith believes the light and sweet carrot ginger broth goes well with seafood, and we would have to agree. Plus, the addition of horseradish mashed potato puree brings out the flavor of the carrots and the ginger. The Pork Osso Bucco ($33) doesn’t fare as well. The hearty four-inch shank is braised for four hours in a demi-glaze and is as tender as pork can be, but the sun-dried tomato risotto is thick and gummy, as if cooked too long, and lowers the quality of the dish. Compared with the oversized scallops and the tender pork, the Lamb T-Bones ($37) are surprisingly small. They offer a beautiful flavor, finished with a butter of shallots, parsley, lemon juice and salt. But, unfortunately, they were undercooked on our visit and what little tender meat they offered was offset by tough fascia. The Asian Duck Orange ($34) is a wonderful start, with duck breast marinated in orange liqueur, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice and cloves, then pan-seared and served with two sweet sauces. However, the wrapper of the accompanying fried duck wonton — much like a spring roll stuffed with rich pulled duck, celery, leeks and chives — gets soft and chewy sitting in the huckleberry gastrique. The Fried Buttery Gnocchi ($8) side sinks like lead pellets and the tasteless herbed brown butter sauce does nothing to enhance them.

Smith, who is also the pastry chef, offers a variety of desserts, from a Chocolate Soufflé ($10) with a hint of Jack Daniels in a creamy center, to a decadent Black Forest Baked Alaska ($12) — a meringue-wrapped ice cream pie with an Oreo cookie crust, chocolate ice cream, chocolate cake, chocolate sauce, chocolate chips and a raspberry coulis — to a flaky Cinnamon Apple Tart ($10) and a Banana Walnut Sushi ($10) with a banana dipped in chocolate, rolled in walnuts, then cooled and sliced like sushi with strands of candied ginger.

Santo offers a reduced-price Miami Spice menu until the end of September.

Santo Restaurant & Lounge

ADDRESS: 430 Lincoln Road, South Beach

PHONE: 305-532-2882

HOURS: Tuesday through Saturday, lunch 11:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.; dinner 6 to 11 p.m. (or midnight on weekends)

FOOD: World Cuisine

SERVICE: Excellent

PRICES: Appetizers $8 to $17, entrées $28 to $40

WINES: Choice selection of domestic and international labels

ATMOSPHERE: Stylish and contemporary

RESERVATIONS: Recommended

CREDIT CARDS: All major credit cards

 Comments? E-mail letters@miamisunpost.com.


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