Perfectly delicate and rich: DeVito’s Burrata Alla Capresé

By now, everyone has heard about the $325 steak at DeVito South Beach –– steak for three people that includes a Japanese Kobe A5 rib eye, an Australian Wagyu rollatini and a Wagyu center cut boneless rib eye. But that really isn’t what this Italian chop house at the base of Ocean Drive is all about.

Instead, movie star Danny DeVito’s restaurant is all about good food (in serious quantities), good service and a good time. On a recent Wednesday night, people seemed to be having a great experience — laughing, celebrating birthdays. It could have been a Saturday.

Our server, Ben, answered every question with authority. He confessed that he prepares for his diners by consulting the Internet for additional information about his menu. We were impressed.

That menu, constructed by Executive Chef Francis Casciato, has so much going on that you need to study it before making decisions. The raw bar featured a chilled Seafood Plateau (market price) that included fresh Pacific clams and oysters and an exceptional tonno crudo of Sardinian bluefin tuna tartare and bay scallops in a light balsamic vinaigrette sweetened with Meyer’s lemons. The platter also included three jumbo prawns that were steamed just a bit too long and large medallions of Florida lobster tail that were a touch tough.

Yet, Casciato did create one of the finest capresés we’ve ever had. The Burrata Alla Capresé ($22) featured sugar-sweet, on-the-vine tomatoes paired with rich, delicate and locally made Burrata mozzarella that were drizzled with 12-year-old balsamic.

The V & A “Polpette” — light and tasty meatballs made of veal, beef and pork, topped with whipped ricotta and served on a bed of tasty San Marzano tomato sauce — are much smaller than the oversized house meatballs served at DeVito’s sister restaurant, Vic & Angelo’s, and we found it difficult to get past the $20 price. A quick word on San Marzano tomatoes: Enjoy these less-sweet and less-acidic gems while you can; they grow only in volcanic soil, and that ash will be gone in seven or eight years. For now, at least, DeVito brings them in fresh.

All of the pastas were top shelf. Risotto All’ Aragosta was a creamy, al dente gem with cherry tomatoes, reggiano parmigiano, butter and four ounces of Maine lobster. A seared lobster half-tail — sweet, moist and tender — rested atop the risotto. The Fettuccine Ai Funghi Tartufati ($26) was a reserved favorite, with very little cream and cheese cluttering the dish to make way for light truffle oil, roasted mushrooms and asparagus. The Porcini Trio ($32) offered delicate ricotta gnocchi instead of the usual potato base. These were served in a porcini puree with fried porcini and finished with a porcini cream that was just a touch too salty. Casciato said his Italian crew doesn’t think his Fusilloni ($28) is real Italian. After all, who eats fusilli pasta in San Marzano sauce with whipped ricotta, peperonata and … fried chicken? But the dish is a customer favorite and the chunks of chicken are light, crispy and very tender.

We didn’t have the Kobe, but the 28-ounce Bone-In Rib Eye ($54), direct from the Chicago stockyards, couldn’t have been better. DeVito dry-rubs all of its meats with a concoction called DeVito Dust, a secret recipe that is supposed to add a bit of spice and sweetness. Perhaps the duster missed our beef because all we got was the rich, hearty flavor of a perfectly grilled rib eye. Surprisingly, the most popular protein on the menu isn’t a meat at all. It’s the Branzino Simpatico ($42), a light 1¼-pound filet of Mediterranean sea bass that is shipped in from Greece three times a week. Casciato believes it’s so popular because guests want to eat light in the heat of summer. The flavorful fish was prepared with truffle sea salt, pan seared with pinot grigio and olio verde, finished in the oven and served with a roasted lemon, heirloom tomatoes and northern beans.

Desserts included a Torta Amaretto ($12) — an almond Amaretto torte topped with mascarpone cream — a peach flambé and a pistachio semifreddo. The Cannoli Siciliani ($10) was a perfectly crisp cannoli stuffed with ricotta impastata (that’s top-quality ricotta with less moisture) and chocolate chips.

If you’re with your rich uncle, let him order the $325 Kobe for you. If not, go for anything else on the menu and you’ll still have a filling and fulfilling evening.

DeVito South Beach ADDRESS: 150 Ocean Drive, Miami Beach PHONE: 305-531-0911 HOURS: 5 to 11:45 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; till 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday FOOD: Italian chop house SERVICE: Excellent PRICES: Appetizers $12 to $38; entrées $24 to $325 (serves 2 or 3) WINES: Choice selection of domestic and international labels ATMOSPHERE: Rustic with modern twists RESERVATIONS: Strongly suggested CREDIT CARDS: All major credit cards