El Carajo: more than just a gas station.

There’s no sign for El Carajo International Tapas and Wines. Just look for the Citgo station on Southwest 17th Avenue, right off South Dixie Highway. No, that’s not a reference point. That is where the restaurant is located — inside the gas station.

After all, when you’ve got a perfectly good location where people can fill up their cars and themselves at the same time, why not make the most of it? That’s what Richard Fonseca — gas station proprietor, wine merchant and restaurateur — did. Fifteen years ago, he enclosed his car wash and created a successful wine shop that he expanded into a restaurant in 2006.

Fonseca opened his first El Carajo restaurant on Red Road in West Miami in 2005, but its name created controversy because it carries a double meaning in Spanish: Literally “crow’s nest,” over time it became synonymous with “go to hell” and “damn you.”

Fonseca won his battle with city officials, and the Latin restaurant kept its name. He then opened a second, larger location and added the term “international” to accurately reflect the diversity of its cuisine. The ever-changing menu — overseen by Swiss-trained Executive Chef Juan Cilero — is about 50 percent Spanish with Peruvian, Chilean, Argentine, Cuban and even some Italian dishes. If you have difficulty deciding which wine to order with dinner, arrive early. El Carajo holds wine tastings from 5 to 8 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays.

The 36-seat restaurant — intimate and tucked away from its retail surroundings — overlooks an impressive wall of 2,000 wines. And while the menu is predominantly tapas, there are full dinner plates, too. The prices are so inexpensive, you could practically dine here daily.

We began with a hearty slice of Tortilla Espanola ($3.50) — a wedge of Spanish omelet, simply prepared with eggs, onions and potatoes, that stood about 4 inches high. Next we tried a plate of Cod Fish Croquettes ($4). This was the only dish we could fault, as the insides of the little finger foods were still somewhat frozen. But we forgot all about that when the tasty and attractive Combinacion Meson ($14) arrived. It was a perfect, imported Spanish antipasto, filled with cured chorizo, pork loin and Serrano ham, thin slices of manchego cheese and incredibly creamy cabrales.

Ceviche de Corvina ($7) could have fetched a much higher price elsewhere. Rather than small chunks, the dish featured large medallions of the firm white fish whose mild, sweet, delicate flavor was enhanced by a light chili rocoto marinade. The Shrimp in Garlic Sauce ($10) and white wine were tender and properly prepared, but they couldn’t hold a candle to the very lightly breaded and gently grilled Sardines ($7.50) that were freshly imported from Santurce.

Sadly, we were too late to order the daily Paella. We will return for it, since El Carajo’s version is anything but typical. Instead of chicken or fish, Cilero incorporates more exotic ingredients, such as rabbit. His philosophy is to not be tied down by tradition. As long as the paella has a fish stock base, he can add whatever he likes. In lieu of the paella, we went for the Tabla de Carne for Two ($22). This was a wooden plank seemingly loaded with every grilled meat in El Carajo’s repertoire: savory chorizo made with Spanish cider instead of oil for a cleaner taste, lamb chop, pork loin, blood sausage, chicken breast and lomo, as well as new potatoes and slices of Hawaiian tostones.

Desserts included a Crema Catalana ($5), think a creamier crème brulee; and soursop (guanabana) flan ($5) that tasted like a creamy, sour honey, fruit candy. Without question, the Pears in Wine Sauce ($5) gave this little gas station restaurant dinner a continental conclusion.

El Carajo International Tapas and Wines ADDRESS: 2465 S.W. 17th Ave., Miami PHONE: 305-856-2424 HOURS: Monday through Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday till 11 p.m.; Saturday 12:30 to 11 p.m. FOOD: Peruvian, Argentinean, Cuban, Spanish SERVICE: Subdued, yet attentive PRICES: Tapas $3.50 to $14.50, Meals $9 to $30 WINES: It’s a wine shop! Choose from about 2,000 bottles ATMOSPHERE: Surprisingly intimate and charming RESERVATIONS: Suggested on weekends CREDIT CARDS: All major cards