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Menudo: Cure that hangover with some tasty
tripe. |
I take pity on the poor misguided folks,
who, craving their version of Mexican food that focuses on
slushy Margaritas and four-pound burritos, fail to see that one
of the world's most varied and historic cuisines can be an
amazing eating experience on the most basic level. The crux is
authenticity, and one of the most authentic Mexican restaurants
in Miami,
Mi Rinconcito, hides in plain sight on Calle Ocho.
When Mi
Rinconcito was located in a tiny storefront across the street,
the food, while superb, was diminished by the dark surroundings.
Now that they have twice the seating and kitchen space, the
top-notch food finally has a setting in which it shines.
The
owner, from Hidalgo, Mexico, knows how to cook the tacos, the
quesadillas, and, yes, the burritos. But the real secret here,
the underlying recipes, delights diners who wish to feast like
real Mexicans. And many Mexicans do eat here.
The best
time to show up is during the weekend, and I like to find a
space at the counter so I can watch the three or four cooks
knocking elbows in the busy, narrow kitchen. On Sundays, start
with the Shrimp Ceviche Tostada ($4.95),
a light and tasty fried tortilla topped with a large mound of
diced shrimp, onions, jalapeños, cilantro, tomatoes and avocado,
all lightly drizzled with lime juice. The shrimp stays crunchy,
as does the tostada, and absorbs all the flavors. Ask for extra
avocado if you’d like, but do yourself a favor and don't ask for
a fork — you'll probably get a pitying look from the waitress
because this is finger food.
Follow
with the Pozole ($6.95),
a pork stew that contains big chunks of meat, along with half a
hock, miscellaneous pork bones and the chewy large white hominy
that gives it its distinctiveness. Top it off with chili powder,
lime, diced onions and hot sauce, and keep the warm tortillas
coming. They are delicious, and they help to cut the spicy heat
of the soup. Another soup that should not be missed is the
classic Menudo ($6.95),
packed with hangover-curing tripe, cooked to the point of chewy
tenderness and not mushy at all. The Caldo de Res ($6),
beef soup, is a substantial quart of tangy beef bits, vegetables
and meaty broth. Squirt some lime on it, and maybe a little hot
sauce, because the food here is just hot enough to bring out the
delicate flavors without overpowering them.
As far
as the more familiar dishes are concerned, the quesadillas
(three for $4.95)
are straightforward, crunchy and not greasy, and served with a
choice of corn or flour tortillas. The beans on the side are al
dente, and the guacamole is smooth and fresh. It is not made
tableside, but there is something to be said for letting the
ingredients marry one another for a few hours. The tacos (three
for $5) are
first-rate, especially the Adobada, seasoned pork and the
Barbacoa de Borrego, which is steamed and seasoned lamb. All the
flavors and juices are sealed in by this method and, as such,
the tacos are a great starter for a great price. Follow with
something more unusual, like Pancita con Lengua ($7.95),
tripe and tongue in a green sauce, served with beans and rice.
These two ingredients require great care to come out of the
kitchen and land on your table with such fanfare, but the cooks
make it seem easy. There's just enough texture and substance to
make this dish a complete success.
Oh, and
their burritos aren't bad, either.
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Mi Rinconcito Mexicano
ADDRESS:
1961 S.W. 8th St., Miami
PHONE:
305-644-4015
HOURS:
10 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.
daily
CREDIT CARDS:
Accepts all major cards
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