 |
|
La Moon serves wieners and taters in the
form of salchicriollas. |
The
beats of vallenato blare from the speaker above the
flat screen next to the cash register. Large groups squeeze
into tables intended for four — some ladies sitting on their
men’s laps — all to get their late-night hunger fix.
It’s
2 a.m.
Sunday morning and hungry partygoers from the nearby Bricks
and Transit Lounge inundate tiny La Moon restaurant; the
party continues here as they indulge in Colombian-style food
and maybe even a few more beers.
Fried empanadas, chicken burgers, pinchos
(meat or chicken kebabs) and Colombian hot dogs are popular
on late nights when La Moon’s eight tables become hot
commodities. But it’s not just the fast food that has made
this family-run restaurant popular. In a nondescript
building along Southwest Eighth Street,
two brothers, formerly of China Grill’s kitchen, have
created a humble spot where anyone from local musicians and
artists to Porsche-driving Brickell execs can come for homey
Colombian dishes.
Many probably first got to know La Moon for its hot dogs. Up
until about a month ago, when the restaurant finally put a
sign in the front of the building (they’ve been operating
for almost two years), the only visible evidence of a
restaurant was a banner on the building’s side that read
perros Colombianos (Colombian hot dogs). That perro
colombiano ($4.25) — a hot dog topped with five sauces
and crushed potato chips — is a popular and strangely
satisfying menu item. The typical ketchup and mustard
combined with pineapple and garlic sauces and salsa
rosada (a mix of ketchup and mayonnaise) give the dog a
juicy feel, and the crushed matchstick potato chips a
welcome crunch. The larger Superperro La Moon
adds chorizo, bacon and a quail egg into the mix. Somehow
this works, but eating it is a messy ordeal unless you have
a big mouth or you pick up the knife and fork. And who wants
to eat a hot dog with cutlery?
The chicken burger sports a generously sized chicken patty
topped with your typical cheese, lettuce, tomato and onions,
dressed the same as the hot dogs. It’s a welcome alternative
for those who prefer to stay away from the beef. The
salchicriollas, a bowl of fried papas criollas —
small golden yellow potatoes — and sausage cut in pieces, is
a fun appetizer or late-night snack. I could do without the
sausage, but the salty fried potatoes native to Colombia, a
little crisp on the outside, soft and steamy on the inside,
are hard to stop eating. The mazorca desgranada, corn
kernels served on lettuce topped with potato sticks, a
blanket of melted mozzarella and pink sauce, may sound
unappealing, but like other dishes at La Moon, it’s oddly
delicious. The crunch of the corn and the chips add texture
to the melted cheese and sauce, which carry most of the
flavor.
Like late nights on weekends, lunch during the week is prime
time at La Moon and, thankfully, they don’t blast the music,
so you can actually carry on a conversation. The brothers’
wives run the register and the front of the house most days.
Service is friendly, though not perfect. The father takes
care of deliveries, and although the 15 entrées some offices
often order must certainly be good for business, they can
slow your service if you’re dining on-site. After repeated
visits, that’s only happened a couple of times.
Aside from the fast food, the restaurant serves sandwiches,
salads, beef, chicken, seafood and daily specials. And not
everything is Colombian style. The menu includes items like
a tuna Niçoise salad and run-of-the-mill wraps.
On Wednesdays, try the ajiaco, a typical potato-based
soup, which really is a full meal, containing shredded
chicken, corn on the cob, peas and carrots. The bowl is good
for two, and it’s served with white rice and a house salad.
For whatever it’s worth, the ajiaco is as close to my
mom’s as I’ve found in Miami, and there’s something to be
said for authenticity.
Other typical Colombian dishes include cow’s tongue,
arepas — corn cakes filled with cheese, or cheese and
shredded chicken or beef — and mojarra frita, a fried
Colombian tropical fish served standing up on the plate with
rice and fried green plantains.
A grilled chicken entrée — grilled chicken breast, rice, red
beans and plantains — served every day for $9.25 is a good
value for the Brickell lunch crowd. Accompany it with some
refajo (a mix of beer and Colombiana, a Colombian
soda) and you’ve got a lunch not much out of the ordinary,
but just like something you might cook at home. That is
likely a large part of La Moon’s appeal. You don’t go there
for the ambience, the service or the creativity in the food;
you go there to satisfy cravings for homey food or for the
fast food hangover cure.
|
La Moon Restaurant
ADDRESS:
144 S.W. Eighth St.,
Miami
PHONE:
305-860-6209
HOURS: Mondays-Tuesdays, 8 a.m. to midnight; Wednesdays
8 a.m. to 3 a.m.; Thursdays-Saturdays, 8 a.m. to 6 a.m.;
Sundays 9 a.m. to midnight
FOOD:
Colombian traditional and fast food
PRICES:
Appetizers, $1.25 to $8.50; entrées, $9 to $12.25; daily
specials, $9.25
SERVICE: Friendly
ATMOSPHERE: Casual
BEERS AND WINES: Colombian beers; limited wines
RESERVATIONS: No
CREDIT CARDS: Accepts all major cards; $10 minimum |
|