Leal at Cacao

By Mark Goldberg
Dining Critic 

Edgar Leal is back. After a year at Zur and another at Visio Café, the executive chef/restaurateur has returned to his South American roots, which he has planted deliciously deep in his new restaurant along Coral Gables’ version of restaurant row, Giralda Avenue. This new venture brings the tastes of South America – Peru, Venezuela, Brazil to name a few – to life in a warm and attractive atmosphere that combines rich woods, metallic silver, glass and gold in a modern format that works well with the attractive platters Leal is creating.

Cacao 1737 (named for the date chocolate received its biological moniker) is more than just a hint of desserts to come. Leal has partnered himself with Chocolates El Rey C.A., a high-end Venezuelan chocolate company, and uses the sweet treasure in several of his main dishes. Fortunately the menu comes with a well-schooled wait staff that is happy to explain what goes into such dishes as matambre al estilo Argentino and reina pepiada arepa chip.

We began with a chilled green Gazpacho ($7.50), so colored because its main ingredient is avocado rather than tomato, puréed down into a creamy stock and blended with cilantro, onions and Tabasco. Thick and rich, with just a hint of spice. Leal sprinkles the soup with bits of nachos for a little crunch and dusts the bowl with gold dust. The Peruvian Crayfish and Yellow Potato Napoleon ($12) has a base of potato mash and sweet Florida lobster that rises to a ring of avocado puree. Then more mash topped with steamed shrimp. The colorful dish is moistened with a delightful shrimp bisque and served at room temperature. Salmon Ceviche ($8) proves there are other ways to present this dish rather than just some over-lemonized grouper in a martini glass. Leal presents his ceviche plated, as chunks of tender salmon barely “cooked” in a light mix of lemon, cilantro, leeks, and sweet chilies. A bit of guacamole is placed in the center of the dish, accompanied by mini nachos. Stuffed Yuca ($14) is boiled and mashed, then wrapped about minced shrimp, octopus and squid and shaped into two croquettes before frying. Served over a muted salsa criollo of diced red onions, yellow chilies, leeks and red peppers, the sauce works a nice contrast to the shellfish-stuffed tuber. Okay, here comes some chocolate. It’s in the Duck Escabeche ($11). Leal slices duck breast and marinates it in oil and vinegar, along with strips of carrot and onions for a nice acidic treat. Beneath the duck is a carrot and white chocolate mousse, so barely chocolaty that it’s sweetness tends to mellow out the acidity of the duck without dominating the main ingredient.

The Rabbit entree ($18) is also Peruvian and prepared like a stew – cooked in it’s own jus with a bit of orange and a touch of wine – so the meat remains tender and moist with a subtle sweetness that is further reinforced by the mango and wild cherry port sauce. Enhancing the dish even further is the addition of some surprisingly-light yucca gnocchi. Skirt Steak ($22) is cooked to order, sliced and plated along with roasted vegetables – green peppers, yellow chilies and red onions – in a wine sauce that combines the essence of South American wild nuts. Bouillabaisse ($15) arrives in a large pot, filled with shrimp, calamari and mussels as well as broccoli, cauliflower and other fresh vegetables. But this is a Peruvian Creole bouillabaisse, so rather than the familiar tomato base, this fish-stock treat is highlighted by yellow chilies that are so subtle, you won’t recognize the encroaching spice until you are halfway through. And even then you can’t stop. The menu said Salmon Medallions ($15), but what arrived was an impressive filet that was so tender that we have never experienced its like before. The buttery fish was prepared in the lightest garlic sauce, with pine nuts and spiced Cape gooseberries, and presented over fried yucca strips for a contrasting crunch to the salmon’s softness. With salmon this exquisite, next visit we will definitely try the Patagonian Trout with Mint.

At Cacao 1737, you can’t say dessert ($4.50 each) without thinking chocolate. There’s the really rich dark Chocolate Tartetta, an aromatic adventure with a thick cardamom cream topping. The Tower of Chocolate is a tall chocolate almond tuile cookie, stuffed with a milk chocolate mousse and stood upright over a roasted banana puree and topped with fresh fruit and crème anglaise. You can choose from twin Domes. The soft Chocolate Dome is filled with a passion fruit mousse, while the White Chocolate Dome – (nicknamed pearls and rubies) covers a fresh strawberry, raspberry and blackberry filling. There are a few non-chocolate desserts, but hey!, this is Cacao 1737.

It should also be mentioned that Cacao has created an impressive glass-enclosed wine cellar that, while at only ninety current labels is on its way to over 400. They are also about to open a chocolatierie boutique next door, of course.

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Cacao 1737

ADDRESS: 141 Giralda Avenue, Coral Gables

PHONE: (305) 445-1001

HOURS: Lunch Monday through Friday 11:30am to 3pm; Dinner Sunday through Wednesday 6pm to 11pm; Thursday through Saturday till 11:30pm

FOOD: South American

SERVICE: When exploring new dishes it’s good to have a knowledgeable server like our.

PRICES: Appetizers $6.50 to $14, entrees from $14 to$26

WINES: A quality list of domestic and international labels including many from South America, with price points for every pocketbook

ATMOSPHERE: Entrancing appeal with the warmth of a family dining room.

RESERVATIONS: Suggested

SMOKING: No

CREDIT CARDS: All major cards