China Grill was never really a Chinese restaurant. Its menu of upscale treasures is highlighted with Asian accents, fusing an East/West philosophy into an incredible meal. There’s wasabi in the mashed potatoes, soba noodles served with the tenderloin and Japanese pepper crusts the spicy tuna. So I wondered just how Japanese China Grill’s new Dragon Room would be. The answer: It’s all about the sushi, the sashimi and twenty delectable designer rolls.

The Dragon Room is being promoted as its own restaurant, but its only entrance is through China Grill. That’s not a bad thing, since the high-energy activity vibrating from the main restaurant offers a nice counterbalance to the more sedate, 40-seat Dragon Room. Dressed in copper and browns, the room boasts a large dragon hanging from the ceiling. The front of the room features an impressive sushi bar, behind which is a display of the Dragon Room’s imported sakes, some of which take up to six months to arrive from Japan. In fact, no hot sakes are served, as the cold choices are always of better quality. However, if you’re not a sake connoisseur, choose one or more of the creative ‘martini’ saketinis – everything from lychee nut to lemongrass to the smooth dragon to the sweet white ninja with white Godiva chocolate.

While servings are not in the formidable China Grill economy size, most of the menu items are big enough to share. Especially the futomaki, which understandably translates to Jumbo Rolls. But lets begin with the Zen Sai.

The Zen Sai is a collection of exotic appetizers with the China Grill spin. Salt And Pepper Shrimp ($17.75) are large prawns in the shell that have been crisped in a wok and sweetened with a tart palm sugar and lime sauce. The salt and the sauce combine to create the slightest hint of a sweet and sour appeal. The dish is served over mixed greens and topped with daikon. Kumamoto Oysters And Foie Gras ($32.50) are somewhat pricey and it’s not because the oyster share a plate with foie gras. Yes, the foie gras is delicious, topped with plum sauce and rests on a bed of sprouts, but it’s those delectably plump, sweet, yet little oysters topped with a bit of caviar that demand the high price tag. Originally available only from Kumamoto, Japan, the oysters are now extinct in that country and only through the dedication of our upper northwest states, can we still enjoy these tiny gems. Big Eye Tuna Tataki ($18) slightly sears the fish before dicing it, blending it with ginger, black and white sesame seeds and pickled cucumber and serving it with a ponzu sauce. The Satay ($11) appetizer once again blends different tastes and textures, combining roasted duck, fig and scallion on the same skewer. The tender sweetness of the fig and the richness of the duck are tempered into a unified flavor by the addition of the scallion. Dip it in ponzu, Kimchee, or peanut sauce, as you like.

The majority of Dragon Room’s fish are imported from Japan. That means the sushi and sashimi are first quality. You’ll find all of your favorites as well as some other local ‘sushi restaurants’ can’t deliver. But the evening belonged to the Rolls. We began with a Spicy Tuna ($13) hand roll, which our waiter was kind enough to cut into sections for us. Mixed with the fresh tuna was avocado, fresh scallions, wasabi tobiko and a spicy Japanese mayo. While nothing set our palates on fire, the tang of the spice was evident and had us ordering additional saketinis. BBQ Eel ($17) was a maki roll stuffed with tasty barbecued eel, incredibly mellowed by cream cheese and sweetened with an eel sauce, all held together with sticky rice. The Havana Roll ($15) combined yellowtail snapper with shredded coconut, bits of avocado and red tobiko and served it in a rum sauce that took this maki roll in another direction. The Dragon Roll ($20) was a true Jumbo Roll, stuffed with tempura shrimp, king crab, avocado, seaweed, and masago. Riding the forefront of the roll was a prawn head. The tail, still filled with delicious shrimp brought up the rear. To look at it, it really was a dragon, but a very tasty one.

Speaking of tasty, desserts come from the China Grill side, where pastry chef Barbara Avayu continues to perfect such decadent treats as Bananas In A Box ($10), caramelized bananas and caramel cream in a caramelized tuile box dipped, of course, in chocolate. And a Chocolate Seduction ($15) that includes everything chocolate from chopsticks to sushi roll to ten layer chocolate hazelnut cake.

Take your time and enjoy this offshoot of China Grill. In fact, all the seats in the Dragon Room tilt back a little so you’re almost reclining while dining. That’s the way to enjoy good food.

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Dragon Room at China Grill

ADDRESS: 404 Washington Avenue, South Beach

PHONE: (305) 534-2211

HOURS: Dinner Sunday – Thursday: 6PM – Midnight; Friday & Saturday till 1AM

FOOD: Sushi, sashimi and rolls done China Grill Style

SERVICE: With only 40 seats, servers are even more attentive than ever

PRICES: Appetizers $9.50 to $32.50, Rolls from $11 - $29

WINES: Forget the wines and go for an imported cold sake, single bottle of which often take six months to arrive

ATMOSPHERE: Stylish with lots of copper, glass and a Disney manufactured dragon hanging from the ceiling.

RESERVATIONS: Not accepted

SMOKING: No

CREDIT CARDS: American Express, Visa, Mastercard, Diners Club