Novecento: Melding the Argentine with the Mediterranean

By Mark Goldberg
Dining Critic

You get a special feeling when you know a restaurant is going to work. There’s that decade of history in New York and South America, a stylish look – not overdone, but done just right, a knowledgeable and conscientious team of servers, a house filled with happy patrons overflowing onto sidewalk dining, even a crowd at a bar that still serves only beer and wine.

Oh, and the food. It’s a marvelous meld of Argentine and Mediterranean, with a bit of pasta, a lot of beef, and fish dishes that could make you forget the lure of the parrillada.

Novecento is only one month old, but its diners are already steady friends. Beach-berthed Argentines and quality seeking locals fill the restaurant nightly to enjoy Executive Chef Gabriel Medici’s menu. Medici was the original chef in Novecento’s first location in SoHo and has traveled the company’s ‘Opening Circuit’ ever since. Here’s hoping he remains on South Beach for a while.

Empanadas ($6) are not usually a favorite of mine as the dough is often heavy and dry. But these plate-sized treats were light and flaky – almost buttery. Choose two from a selection of hand-carved beef (rich and slightly spiced), spinach and cheese with onion, or a sweet and creamy corn. The corn empanada was deep-fried but is also available baked. Our Ceviche ($8) was a pleasing diced salmon with a touch of chimichurri added to the marinade to make it more Argentine. It was served over tostones with a blend of avocado, onions and red peppers. Artichoke Salad ($8) was superb in its tasteful simplicity. Baby artichoke hearts, baby greens, fresh corn and haricot vert – even a bit of grapefruit – with a sprinkling of slivered almonds in a honey/lime vinaigrette. Novecento offers a nice mixed grill ($13) featuring sweetbreads, chorizo, empanadas, brochette and a quesadilla, but if you really love sweetbreads by all means order the Mollejitas Doradas ($9). Rather than simple grilling, these choice tidbits are pan roasted in a demi until almost caramelized and served with sautéed string beans, tomato, corn and sliced mushrooms. Shoestring potatoes share the plate.

Grilled Rack Of Lamb ($22) offered so much thick, tender and delicious New Zealand chop that we thought the low price was an error. Prepared in a rosemary sauce and roasted to perfection, the lamb rested on a bed of creamy sliced potatoes and was served with vegetable gratin and roasted tomatoes. A moist Grouper filet ($22) was pan roasted and topped with sautéed shrimp in a sauce highlighted with diced tomatoes, onions, basil, cilantro and lime juice. As a special treat, the dish sported a tower of sautéed plantains, think of it as a banana cake topped with a bit of crème anglaise. Entrecote ($21) was a handsome cut of beef, crusted with crushed peppercorns and set on the grill. Simple in its perfection, the thick steak’s peppery flavor worked well in contrast to a slightly sweet red wine reduction. Sharing the dish were crispy shoestring potatoes. The evening’s special, Red Snapper ($24), was a hearty, bone-free filet sautéed in a lemon/lime/mussels broth, with sweet mussels scattered across the plate. There were even more mussels, still in the shell, guarding the perimeter of the dish. Alongside the moist snapper was a beckoning sweet potato mash that surprised our tastebuds with its not-so-subtle cayenne and black pepper bite. The surprise was a definite treat.

As were the desserts, from a warm chocolate truffle cake ($7) – of course the center ran – to a creamy banana panacotta ($6) with caramelized bananas to a thin-sliced warm apple tartlette ($7) with crème anglaise and vanilla ice cream.

Novecento is a keeper. It’s not on Washington, or Ocean or even Lincoln Road Mall. It doesn’t have its liquor license yet. But it’s got lots of energy, lots of regulars, lots of style. And, of course, the food.

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Novecento

ADDRESS: 1080 Alton Road, South Beach

PHONE: (305) 531-8100

HOURS: Breakfast/Brunch 10am to 3pm; Dinner 6pm to Midnight on weekdays, till 2am on weekends. You can still order during midday.

FOOD: Argentine/Mediterranean meld

SERVICE: They know it all and are thrilled to share it with you.

PRICES: Appetizers $5 to $17, Entrees $12 - $25

WINES: A simple list with special offerings. Your server will explain the aspects of Argentine wines.

ATMOSPHERE: Whether you think New York or Buenos Aires, Novecento creates a casual bistro atmosphere.

RESERVATIONS: Requested

SMOKING: Outdoors and by the bar.

CREDIT CARDS: All