By Mark Goldberg
Dining Critic 

Jimmy Johnson left the Dolphins a few years ago and his restaurant left the Eden Roc last February, when the oceanfront restaurant with the outdoor deck metamorphosed into Aquatica. The evening was breezy with a potential for rain, so we made reservations for indoors. Inside, the restaurant was lovely, with blond woods, blue walls and portholes that look into the upstairs pool. But the room was totally empty. We were encouraged to sit outside on the deck, overlooking the boardwalk and the ocean, where, indeed, everyone else was having dinner.

The weather held and the breeze was delightful. But it was so strong at times that even Aquatica’s most-expensive wines are served in plastic glasses. You see, Aquatica is a something-for-everyone hotel restaurant that serves burgers to the barefooted as well as 20-ounce T-Bones to the wing-tipped. So they can’t have any broken glass on the deck. And happily, the food was good.

Like the South Beach Fish Stew ($7.50). Here was a bouillabaisse that was tender, tasty and involved enough to rank entree status in many SoBe restaurants. The light tomato base was a blend of mirepois and white wine to which was added calamari, mussels and fresh grouper. A bit more picante and much heavier was the Cuban Black Bean Soup ($5.50) whose fire came not from the single thin slice of Andouille sausage, but rather the ancho chili salsa that floated on top along with a drizzle of sour cream. Three huge Coconut Shrimp ($9.50) were a signature dish. But were actually the weakest item we sampled. While cooked perfectly, the shrimps’ breading was way too heavy and the coconut flavor seemed more like a wish than reality. The mango dipping sauce was thick and cloying, cloaking whatever coconut flavor the shrimp might have had. On the plus side was the Jumbo Lump Crab Cake ($8.50), that looked just like what it was; big lumps of crab, blended with Cajun seasoning, clustered together with just a touch of breading. It was light and lively and came together perfectly with the tomato-and-roasted-red pepper coulis and remoulade dips.

While somewhat over cooked, the Florida Grouper ($18.50) was a nice dish, simply grilled with a little olive oil and salt and pepper. The fish arrived with homemade mashed potatoes and a julienne of carrots, zucchini and squash. The dish offered two dipping sauces, a beurre blanc and a salsa and both worked their magic on the filet. Aquatica features a barbecue menu on the weekends, featuring grilled fish, steak, ribs and chicken. We chose the Baby Back Ribs ($20), heavily slathered in a sweet hickory-smoked BBQ sauce, and were surprised when what arrived was back ribs instead. We were informed that all the baby backs had been used for a party that afternoon. And, while the ribs were tender and fat free, we should have been informed in advance. However all the BBQ items come with a spectacular, grilled vegetable medley that included potatoes, a delicious onion, half a tomato and sweet and tender corn on the cob.

Desserts are somewhat standard hotel fare running from Angel Food Cake ($6.50) to a silky Mud Pie ($7.50) to a Fat City Ice Cream Sundae ($8.50).

Aquatica is perfect, following a day in the sun, when the ocean breezes blow up on deck and you can relax with a burger and a beer or a swordfish and a shiraz. Take your shoes off and enjoy. 

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Aquatica

ADDRESS: 4525 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach, in the Eden Roc

PHONE: 305-674-5551

HOURS: Serving 11am to 1am daily, Barbecue Friday through Sunday 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.

FOOD: From standard to upscale beach fare

SERVICE: Personable and well trained

PRICES: Appetizers $5.50 to $12, Entrees from $12.50 to $27.95

WINES: Modestly priced list with a few nice touches

ATMOSPHERE: Breezy, open-air deck dining and more reserved indoor seating

RESERVATIONS: Suggested for large parties

CREDIT CARDS: All major credit cards 

Restaurants