Haute Tapas?
By Mark Goldberg
Dining Critic
As long as Philippe Ruiz is in the kitchen, I will always believe that La Palme d’Or, in The Biltmore, is the finest French restaurant in South Florida. It has been
the epitome of style, class and culture – the benchmarks of a classic Coral Gables restaurant – for decades. It’s something that works so well that no one should ever consider changing it
in any way.
Unfortunately, someone has. Sure, modernization is good. The room is no longer stodgy. The carpeting, statuary, heavy chairs and paintings are gone; replaced with
hardwood floors, attractive wood-framed mirrors, large black & white photos of bygone stars and extremely non-ergonomic armchairs. The sleeker look was designed to attract the younger
crowd. But that sleekness has extended to the menu as well.
Ruiz’ magnificent menu has been reduced to a tasting sheet. The chef cringes at the term tapas, but when an entrée of saddle of rabbit, succulently stuffed with dried
plums, is the size of a buffalo nickel, what other appellation is appropriate? Of course, prices have been scaled way down (the rabbit is only $10). The philosophy is that you can now
enjoy a Palme d’Or dinner for under $40 dollars. However our waitress explained that “since each item is only five to seven bites, you may want to order between four and six dishes per
person.” Add in some wine and dessert and you’ve shot your budget. And gone home hungry.
Yet we must repeat, the food is exceptional. The Porcini Mushroom Bisque ($7) was thick and savory, a multitude of mushrooms sautéed with shallots and blended with
reduced chicken stock and just the right amount of cream. Maine Lobster Cappuccino ($8) featured a knuckle of lobster meat, prepared in a cream-free lobster stock with the slightest touch
of spice and topped with a crème fraiche froth. A Wild Mushroom Cassolette ($10) offered an exceptional mix of trumpet, chanterelle, porcini and oyster mushrooms sautéed with shallots and
garlic and served atop a sweet garlic cream sauce. Micro Greens ($8) grown naturally in Oregon were the basis of a salad that highlighted a nice selection of baby vegetables including snow
peas, turnips and Brussels sprouts, in a shallot vinaigrette which shared the plate with slices of duck proscuitto.
The minute Prime Beef Tartare ($12) was a very clean dish, simply cut from the tenderloin and prepared with a bit of basil oil and mustard oil. Hudson Valley Foie Gras
($16) was excellent. Marinated in white wine, cognac and ground nutmeg and cooked slowly in a ring with leeks and black truffle, this larger-sized dish shared the plate with a dried fruit
chutney of pineapple, orange, star anise, figs and raisins. Green Asparagus Beignet ($9) was a wonderful surprise, as large stalks had their lower halves dipped in parmesan and fried to a
nice crust. The dipping sauce of homemade mayonnaise and shallots further enhanced the flavor. The Crab Cake ($12) took us back to micro-portions, although the deep-fried ball of blue
crab, shallots, red and green peppers was delicious even before the addition of the curry, cream and avocado puree, creating a mild Caribbean curry sauce. Veal and Wild Mushroom Dumpling
($12) combined the same wild mushrooms with a chopped and sautéed veal tenderloin, wrapped in a wonton and poached, served with veal stock and truffle jus. The sauce was frothed with foie
gras and whipping cream just before serving.
A Diver Scallop ($10) was sweet and flavorful, sautéed with shallots, fresh coriander, white wine and chicken stock then cooked slowly before topping it with a fennel
and artichoke barigoule. The Mediterranean Langoustine ($14) was surprisingly a soup rather than a scampi, with the lone shrimp prepared with a little bit of orange and thyme, strained and
blended with some butter and black trumpet mushrooms. Ruiz takes the foam from the top of the bouillon to make a froth. Turbot ($14) was a very likeable dish with the white filet braised
with shallots and white wine and cooked in the oven before being placed over small noodles that were fried until brown and then cooked in a lobster bisque and served over a lemon beurre
blanc. A Baby Lamb Chop ($12) had a tasty Australian heritage that was further enhanced by its gentle pan searing and topping of Dijon and cream. A bed of creamy mashed potatoes encased it
and in turn was encircled by a lamb stock, black olives and piquillo pepper sauce.
Desserts were familiar, little being changed since the previous incarnation. A disappointment was the Selection of Artisanal Cheeses ($12), which arrived with neither
bread, nor rolls nor fresh fruit.
The food at La Palme d’Or is still the finest French fare this side of the Atlantic. You just have to order a lot of it to satisfy your hunger for everything good.
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La Palme d’Or
ADDRESS: 1200 Anastasia Avenue in The Biltmore, Coral Gables
PHONE: 305-445-8066
HOURS: 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. daily; till 11:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays
FOOD: Classic French cuisine
SERVICE: Attentive, tuxedoed waiters
PRICES: Appetizers $6 to $16; Entrees $10 to $16
WINES: Over 300 labels hand selected by Sommelier Sébastien Verrier
ATMOSPHERE: More stylish than high styled
RESERVATIONS: Requested
CREDIT CARDS: All major credit cards
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