“I remember one of the waitresses was chasing the cook around
once with a steak knife. People were wild back then, into drugs
and whatnot,”
By Jason Jeffers
It’s just after
midnight and things are slow at the Denny’s on the corner of 69th
Street and Collins Avenue. A steady flow of traffic zooms up
Collins, away from South Beach, but there aren’t too many people at
the restaurant. The few inside are all regulars however, as much a
part of the scenery as the scuffed and tattered booths around the
room.
“I remember I first
came here as opposed to the IHOP next door because Denny’s had a
better menu at the time, plus the fan over in the IHOP was too small
and the place used to be filled with a greasy smell,” says Stephen
Weiss, fashioning an origami bird out of his paper Denny’s placemat.
A master of the art form, Weiss has had three instructional books
published on the subject, and has been coming to this Denny’s since
it opened more than two decades ago. “IHOP has the better food now —
a lot of their stuff isn’t fried: grilled pork chops, battered cod —
but the ambiance here is still better.”
Weiss will have to
get used to IHOP’s vibe. As of Thursday, August 17 at 6 a.m., the
Denny’s at 6900 Collins Ave. closed its doors for good. According to
a Denny’s spokesperson, the property has been sold and will now
serve as a sales center for Canyon Ranch Miami Beach, a new complex
of oceanfront condominiums that promotes wellness and healthy
living, which is going up across the street.
Denny’s restaurants
are a dime a dozen in this town (and in almost every other town
around the United States, for that matter) but to hear the staff and
the patrons of the North Beach Denny’s tell it, this location has
become something of a neighborhood institution since it opened in
1984; it’s a place for locals to get to know each other just a
little bit better.
“This place has
always had a lot of life to it. I’ve been coming here so long I
pretty much have a parking space,” says John Barnhill, a crane
operator who’s working on the Canyon Ranch construction site across
the street. It’s just after 5 a.m., and this morning, like almost
every other morning, he and some of his workmates come in for
breakfast. “In the summer, you have the kids hanging out during the
daytime. The whole year round you have people coming here after
going to South Beach to sober up a bit, as well as all the regulars
of course, and it’s a lot of them; people just coming and going,
man.”
“The hood will
never be the same,” wrote Daisy Myers, a regular at the restaurant
and one of several people who e-mailed the SunPost with their
farewell messages and recollections of the restaurant. “You weren’t
a number at Denny’s, but a family member.”
A big part of that
family formed around Lisa Horowitz. A waitress at this particular
Denny’s for 17 years up until last Thanksgiving, Horowitz worked the
night shift and was a part of the lives of everyone who came to the
24-hour restaurant in the wee hours of the morning, whether they
were (like Myers) members of the Monday night gang — a group of
residents who would meet weekly after midnight to discuss local
politics and world affairs — or even the homeless people who
frequented the area back in the neighborhood’s rougher days.
“We had plenty of
fights and there used to be a lot of drug dealers and people coming
around selling jewelry,” remembers Horowitz. “I remember that one of
our regulars killed someone for a pair of shoes; he used to come in
all the time and order a plate of French fries and a glass of
water!”
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