Zorba n’ Me

What’s ouzo you ask? Glad you did.

Belly dancer Amina entertains guests at Ouzo’s restaurant recently. Photo by Mitchell Zachs/Magicalphotos.com.

By SunPost Staff 

On one of the last roads in Miami Beach before you’re in Surfside, on a roundabout corner at 940 71st St., lies a quiet little olive of a joint known to locals as Ouzo’s Greek Taverna and Bar.

Ouzo’s lines the sidewalk with great outdoor seating, but if the painted blue tables are all taken with shiny raindrops then you might want to forgo the streetmosphere and duck inside. It’s not a bad idea even if it’s not raining.

Inside, a massive portrait of Zorba the Greek watches over you while you eat (his eyes seem to follow you after a few ouzos), lording over a swanky, subdued lighting, Mediterranean-fashioned cafe. What’s ouzo you ask? Glad you did.

It’s a newer form of an ancient drink originating back to the island of Lesbos (yes, the one of Sappho and frat-boy humor fame) and is essentially a very strong, milky white, licorice-tasting moonshine-like beverage. It’s got a rich anise flavor. And it’s good. Really good.

Pair it with the Greek cheese and kalamata olive plate “mezedes” (Greek for “tidbits” or “appetizers”) if you’re not adventurous enough for the grilled quail or octopus. There’s also a great mixed appetizer platter of cheese pies, spinach pies, calamari, dolmades (grape leaves stuffed with rice and other goodies), kolokithia (fried zucchini) and keftedes (meatballs) — and at $27, it satisfies three.

Traditional Greek (and even French) music plays over the speakers, including the Zorba theme song, which tends to provoke threats of dance to erupt from the bar. With such a warmhearted atmosphere, the place helps a Herculean bad day melt away into the ouzo. Err, ether.

And there’s something about the sharing experience that makes even the most hypochondriacal diner dig into a mixed appetizer platter — throwing caution to the wind, even double-dipping warm pita triangles into the hummus. In fact, you get so infused in the experience, you might even take part in some of the aforementioned dancing. Wouldn’t that be infusiastic?

Ouzo’s now boasts a new menu with some unexpected selections. One skillful Slovakian server (how Miami) finally directs you to the dessert menu. She suggests apple strudel. Hmmm?

“It’s a part of the new menu,” she explains.

“But that’s not Greek. Who makes your desserts?”

“The chef.”

“Who’s your chef?”

“A guy from Turkey.”

Ah. Ouzo. Reminds you of the immortal words of Zorba himself: “Life is trouble. Only death is not. To be alive is to undo your belt and look for trouble.” We agree.

Ouzo’s is located at 940 71st St., Miami Beach. Call 305-864-9848 or visit www.ouzosmiamibeach.com.