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Table 8 Is Enough
Star Chef’s Menu Makes the Wait for Regent Hotel Restaurant
Worthwhile
You might even see a mermaid swim by through the skylight for
the overhead pool.
Govind Armstrong got his start at Spago, at
13. Photo by Michael Katz
by
Mark Goldberg
With contractors, hurricanes and red tape, it
literally took years for Table 8 to finally open in the new Regent
Hotel on Ocean Drive. It was worth the wait. And, although star
executive chef and co-owner Govind Armstrong was in Los Angeles at
his other Table 8 this night, the evening’s menu came off without a
hitch.
That says quite a bit for a 35-year-old chef who began
his career at 13, working for Wolfgang Puck at Spago. It seems
Armstrong has always been associated with culinary notables such as
Mary Sue Miliken and Susan Feniger at their City Restaurant, Mark
Peel and Nancy Silverton in their Campanile, and Joachim Splichal
for his Pinot Hollywood.
Armstrong’s swing from West Coast to East has enabled
him to see, select and serve our local seasonal treasures, just as
he does with his cuisine in California. Now he’s working with red
and green oak lettuce, fresh-caught snapper and Florida grouper.
That Local Red and Green Oak Lettuce ($13) featured
the oak-shaped leaves tossed and piled high with
marinated-then-roasted beets and shaved onions topped with creamy
feta cheese, which worked so well against a black olive vinaigrette.
Diced Bluefin Tuna ($22) was a deep-red belly cut from an Ahi, cut a
little larger than most tuna tartare so we could get a bigger taste
of its richness. The fish rested on a bed of mashed avocado, but it
was the hearts of palm, cooked in sea water, that added another
layer to the dish. The Calamari ($16) was a wonderful departure from
deep-fried tubes. These were gently sautéed, then joined by
white-water clams and bits of homemade chorizo to create a mini-cioppino.
To that were added sweet and soft borlotti beans for body and
cilantro salsa for a touch of heat. Tender and moist Pan-Fried
Sweetbreads ($20) were given an original presentation, being first
dusted with chestnut flour and then placed over torn truffle pasta —
the truffles were actually blended into the pasta dough so their
headiness permeated the entire dish. Both rested in a confit of leek
and roasted chestnuts.
Table 8 diners can choose to eat inside, in a private
four-person booth, outside on either side of an active bar called
The Lounge, or out on the patio overlooking Ocean Drive. If you are
seated down from The Lounge bar and look up, you might even see a
mermaid swim by through the skylight for the overhead pool.
We never thought light could be so right, as it was
with the perfect Pompano ($35) filet. The subtle, clean white fish
shared the plate with a parsnip flan light enough to be foam.
Together they rested on a bed of wilted butter lettuce in
pomegranate vinaigrette heightened with crisp parsnip shavings. A
richer fish, the Florida Grouper ($32), was stuffed with crisp
prosciutto and dressed with roasted asparagus and Roma tomatoes that
were peeled, seared and tossed with olive oil, black pepper and
garlic. The Liberty Fields’ Duck Breast ($33), moist and rich, was a
team effort with glazed quince, haricot vert and lively liver toast
brought together by a marcona almond emulsion. The New Zealand Lamb
($36) was done three ways, boasting two delicious chops, sliced loin
and shank meat that had been braised for eight hours. Joining the
meat in a balsamic reduction were smoked peppers, roasted eggplant
and chick peas. The dish was finished with a homemade yogurt for a
Mediterranean touch.
Table 8 sides (all $9) included a creamy Swiss chard
and a sautéed mix of oyster, chanterelle and shiitake mushrooms. We
enjoyed the Short Rib Hash, braised meat, pulled from the bone,
mixed with potatoes and finished with olive oil, black pepper and
garlic.
And while we enjoyed all our desserts (all $12), from
the Valrhona flourless chocolate soufflé to the crème brulee to the
chocolate cookies-chocolate mousse-fraise ice cream, we fell in love
with the simple, seasonal fruit cobbler. A deep dish loaded with
peaches and a side of vanilla ice cream, it was an ideal way to end
the evening.
Comments? E-mail
letters@miamisunpost.com.
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Table 8
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ADDRESS: 1458 Ocean Drive, South Beach
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PHONE: 305-695-4114
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HOURS: Nightly from 6 to 11; until midnight on
weekends
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FOOD: Florida cuisine
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SERVICE: Personable and knowledgeable
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PRICES: Appetizers $13 to $26, entrées $28 to
$46.
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WINES: Appropriate international list
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ATMOSPHERE: Stylish and chic
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RESERVATIONS: Requested
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CREDIT CARDS: All major
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