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Eating Matters

South Florida fare and international flair — feast on all South Florida has to offer

 

Dirty Tactics

The SEIU claims it’s trying to help underpaid and underappreciated Fisher Island workers, but some say its tactics mimic ancient Chinese torture methods.

 

The Road to Langerado

The sixth annual Langerado Music Festival had it all — magic marshmallows, wacky weather and even death.

 

Surfside Elections

Things are heating up in Surfside as the election and the mud sling into high gear.

 

NEWS

 

Miami DDA is out with the old and in with the two

 

Brickell residents not thrilled about sharing space with late-night art gallery lounge

 

Hallandale Beach City Commission allows two commissioners to sit on pension board

 

City of Hollywood seeks grants for bust  honoring Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.

 

Broward County Commission to expand port if profits prove worth it

 

Letters: Well, a lot of people read us last week

 

The 411

Kris Conesa picks Owen Wilson as his B.F.F., Jennifer Aniston eats at the Blue Door and Ashlee Simpson performs totally trashed.

 

Make Me The President

News flash: Barack Obama is just like every other politician. Even bigger news flash: The media never bothered to report it.

 

Bound

Analysts say an infrastructure-based stimulus package will take too long to rekindle our collapsing economy. Screw them! Hood wants a good old-fashioned New Deal!

 

Theater

The stars of Footloose at Actors’ Playhouse are a bit too old to be playing rebellious teenagers.

 

Theater

Wicked is the hippest show in town and almost completely sold out — ain’t that a witch.

 

Theater

If you want an atypical theater experience, the Sol Theatre puts on quite a show.

 

CD Review

With street cred as a former New Pornographer and a name like Todd Fancey, you’d think Schmancey would be pretty impressive. It is.

 

Groundwork

The condo market collapse spawned a whole new way to make money — file a lawsuit!

 

Film

Never Back Down will leave you wishing you could simultaneously reverse time and kick the crap out of director Jeff Wadlow.

 

Rhythm Foundation Anniversary

Don’t try to pronounce the Rhythm Foundation’s international star-studded lineup. Just jam along at the 20 Years of Rhythm celebration.

 

Murmurs

Order a glass of Miami Beach tap water and you could save a life. And what do a towing company, a maintenance facility and a mayor have in common? They’re all on the move.

 

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Special Sections 2006

Wakefield Archive

Make Me The President Archive

Eating Matters

 March 13, 08

International Nosh

Eat your way around the world without leaving South Florida

By Claudia Boyd-Barrett

Phileas Fogg may have flown his balloon around the world in just 80 days, but in multicultural South Florida, you can eat your way through numerous countries in a weekend and still be on time for work Monday morning.

For anyone with inquiring taste buds, going out for a meal in and around Miami can be like joining a culinary explorer’s club. There’s always a new restaurant to try or some exotic cuisine to dig into. Best of all, because this sunny smorgasbord of a region attracts immigrants from all over the world, you have a pretty good chance of finding the real deal when it comes to international cooking.

So, for anyone interested in embarking on local mouthwatering adventures, here are some of the best international restaurants this area has to offer. Of course, Latin American and Caribbean fare feature prominently on the South Florida scene, but you also can find excellent European, Asian and even African dining experiences.

This list is by no means exhaustive, but a place to start off and then fill in the gaps. Use it as a launch pad to discovering the many flavors, colors, languages and people that make South Florida such a diverse and interesting place to live and eat.

 

North American

 

AMERICAN

Le Tub

1100 N. Ocean Drive, Hollywood; 954-921-9425

If you’re new to this culinary travel thing, you can start right at home with a good ’ol American hamburger. No, we’re not talking about McDonald’s. We’re talking fresh, South Florida fare in a one-of-a-kind setting. Le Tub’s hamburgers have received thumbs up from just about everyone, including Oprah Winfrey, and the breezy location right on the Intracoastal is also a big draw.

Real deal dishes: Sirloinburger, a 13-ounce sirloin, char-grilled with onion, lettuce and tomato ($11; $12 with cheese); Key Lime Pie, made with fresh limes ($4).

Insider’s tip: Bring cash! No credit cards accepted.

 

MEXICAN

Paquito’s Mexican Restaurant

16265 Biscayne Blvd., Miami; 305-947-5027

It isn’t just the food that’s authentic at Paquito’s; the décor and music are, too. The place is a kaleidoscope of Mexican artistry, and on some certain nights of the week, a live mariachi band will serenade you as dine. The restaurant is run by a Mexican family, and if you ignore the “North of the Border” part of the menu and the burritos, you’ll have a good idea of what real Mexican food tastes like.

Real deal dishes: Enchiladas de Mole Poblano, two corn tortillas stuffed with beef, chicken or cheese, dipped in mole poblano, a cacao and chile sauce, and topped with ranchero cheese ($13.50; with shredded beef, $14.95); Chile Relleno, a chili pepper stuffed with beef or cheese, chicken breast or shrimp (a little spicy). $6.95

Insider’s tip: To hear mariachi, dine here Thursday through Sunday.

 

Caribbean and Central American

 

Versailles is the place for Cuban coffee and a guava pastel. Photo by Richard M. Brooks

CUBAN

Versailles

3555 S.W. Eighth St., Miami; 305-444-0240

You can’t live in South Florida without becoming an expert in Cuban cuisine. There are a million great Cuban restaurants to choose from, but for that straight-out-of-Havana feeling, stop by the Versailles restaurant on Calle Ocho. A longtime hangout for Cuban exiles, it has a restaurant, coffee bar and Cuban bakery all on the same site.

Real deal dishes: For a taste of all things Cuban, go for the Surtido Cubano, either the “Clasico” or the “Criollo” ($11.95).

Insider’s tip: Sip a Cuban coffee at the little station outside the restaurant and try the guava pastries for $1.40 total.

 

HAITIAN

Tap Tap

819 Fifth St., Miami Beach; 305-672-2898

Lively, fun and colorful, this restaurant is a cherished Haitian hangout without the usual South Beach pretense. The affordable, authentic food is complemented by beautiful murals, Haitian artwork and brightly painted tabletops. There’s also a live Haitian band on the weekends.

Real deal dishes: Whole Steamed Fish in Lime Sauce, Pumpkin Soup.

Insider’s tip: Try the bar for some delicious Caribbean cocktails.

 

SALVADORAN

El Atlacatl

460 S.W. 17th Ave., Miami; 305-631-8001

Run by three Salvadoran sisters, El Atlacatl is a colorful, inexpensive restaurant with great Central American food. You can enjoy meat, chicken and seafood dishes seasoned with typical Salvadoran spices; hearty soups; and pupusas, corn tortillas filled with cheese and beans. The mural next to the entrance is a tribute to the Los Chorros waterfall in El Salvador, which co-owner Elsy Rivas says was destroyed in an earthquake.

Real deal dishes: Mariscada Salvadoreña con Leche de Coco, Salvadoran seafood soup with coconut milk ($10.95). Try Nuegados de Yuca, a scrumptious dessert made from yuca, cheese, sour cream and egg, and served in sugarcane syrup ($2.25).

Insider’s tip: Try some Horchata, a drink made fresh on the premises ($2.25).

 

South American

 

ARGENTINE

Graziano’s Parrilla Argentina

9227 S.W. 40th St., Miami; 394 Giralda Ave., Coral Gables; 5993 W. 16th Ave., Hialeah; 305-225-0008

Located opposite a “sexy toys” shop and next to a bowling alley on Southwest 40th Street, Graziano’s looks from the outside like an unlikely place for fine dining. But the inside exudes warmth and elegance, with a glass-enclosed wood fire and grill room as you walk in and two cozy dining rooms lined with wine racks and tango paintings. Argentina is famous for beef, but the country’s Italian influence also makes for great pasta dishes.

Real deal dishes: Parrillada de Carnes y Achuras, a selection of meats, including grilled sausage, blood sausage, beef sweet breads, Angus beef flap meat and Angus beef short ribs served on a brazier; Ravioles de Espinaca y Ricotta, homemade ravioli with spinach and ricotta, served with white sauce.

Insider’s tip: Browse the Argentine wines at Graziano’s Pizzeria next door.

 

COLOMBIAN

La Moon

144 S.W. Eighth St., Miami; 305-860-6209

The Barrera brothers from Colombia started this restaurant as a place for fine Mediterranean food, but when that didn’t take off they decided to stick with their home country cuisine, says General Manager William Barrera. Now, this Colombian fast-food restaurant has become hugely popular for its traditional-style hot dogs and is a late-night hangout for many downtown club-goers.

Real deal dishes: Perro Colombiano, a hot dog served with pineapple, mozzarella, crushed potato chips, ketchup, garlic and pink sauce ($4.25); Bandeja Paisa (Mountain Plate), rice, red beans, pork, sweet plantains, egg, corn pancake, charcoal steak ($10.50). Insider’s tip: In the restaurant’s store, you can buy Colombian torta negra, a cake made from wine syrup and raisins.

 

PERUVIAN

El Gran Inka

3155 N.E. 163rd St., North Miami Beach; 305-940-4910

If you’ve never had Peruvian food, this is a fun place to start. El Gran Inka draws you into the country’s cultural and culinary riches with elegant, Peruvian-inspired décor and a menu filled with traditional meat, chicken and seafood dishes. You can sit outside on wicker chairs or try the special ceviche bar. Also have a sip of Peru’s famous Pisco Sour drink, a liquor made from grapes and whipped up with egg, sugar and lemon.

Real deal dishes: Ceviche, fish or mixed seafood marinated in lemon juice, served cold; Cau Cau de Mariscos, Creole seafood stew served with steamed potatoes.

Insider’s tip: Owner Rodly Paredes recommends the aphrodisiac seafood soup, Parihuela.

 

European

 

FRENCH

A La Folie

516 Española Way, Miami Beach; 305-538-4484

A La Folie is French for “craziness,” but there’s nothing crazy about wanting to spend time at this relaxing café and restaurant on Española Way. Enjoy savory and sweet crêpes, gourmet sandwiches, salads and quiche, all made by French chefs. It’s also a good spot for breakfast.

Real deal dishes: Escargot, snails in the classic garlic butter sauce ($10.50); Auvergnate Crêpe, cantal cheese, potatoes, bacon and garlic ($7.50).

Insider’s tip: Try some French cider, Cidre Bouche, from Brittany ($6 a glass).

Mykonos’ Greek salad. Photo by Richard M. Brooks

GREEK

Mykonos

1201 S.W. 22nd St, Miami; 305-856-3140

Looking at the murals of domed, white-washed buildings and glistening sea on the walls of the Mykonos restaurant, it’s hard to imagine why John and Maria Kafouros left the Greek islands where they grew up. Luckily for Miami, they did, and you can sample all kinds of delicious Greek goodies at this family-run restaurant.

Real deal dishes: Mousaka, layers of ground beef, eggplant, potato and cream ($8.95); Mezedakia appetizer, feta and Kaseri cheese, gyro meat, olives and a whole range of Greek goodies ($14.95).

Insider’s tip: On Saturday nights, Greek coffee may come with some extra showmanship.

 

SPANISH

Casa Juancho

2436 S.W. Eighth St., Miami

Walking into Casa Juancho is like entering a traditional Spanish banquet hall. There’s dry-cured Spanish Serrano ham hanging from the ceiling and fresh seafood and bowls of berries surrounding a kitchen area in the center of the restaurant. The ham, seafood, wine and bread are imported directly from Spain. You won’t save any money here, but the place is impressive and the food is good.

Real deal dishes: Paella Marinera, paella with seafood and fish ($28 per person); Zarzuela de Mariscos Catalana, assorted seafood casserole in a marinara sauce ($28). Insider’s tip: Get the tapas menu for some authentic Spanish nibbles, including Fabada Asturiana ($10), Pulpo a la Gallega ($12) and Queso Manchego ($8).

 

Middle Eastern

 

TURKISH

A La Turka

2027 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood; 954-925-5900

Tucked at the end of a long line of restaurants on Hollywood Boulevard, this Turkish, family-owned restaurant is a little-known gem. Dishes include Baba Gannoush (mashed eggplant), freshly made gyro platters and falafel. Be sure not to eat too much of the yummy Turkish bread and olive paste before your meal arrives.

Real deal dishes: Sample a la Turca, a large plate of different Turkish appetizers ($25); Gyro Platter, marinated ground lamb and beef cooked over an open flame, served with green salad and pita bread or rice ($12).

Insider’s tip: If you have room for dessert, try the Baklava ($4).

 

Asian

 

INDIAN

Heelsha Indian Cuisine

1550 N.E. 164th St., North Miami; 305-919-8393

You’ll feel you’ve discovered a hidden gem when you arrive at Heelsha. This cute little restaurant nestled behind a Walgreens store on Northeast 164th Street is in an odd location, but it’s a great place to try real Indian and Bangladeshi food. Run by the Rahman family, the restaurant offers delicious homemade curries and clay-oven bread. It also has vegetarian and low-calorie menus.

Real deal dishes: Satkara, lamb, beef or goat cooked in a traditional citrus sauce from Bangladesh’s Shylet region ($17.99); Naan, a soft and fluffy clay-oven baked bread — order plain or filled with beef, spinach and cheese, or nuts and raisins ($2.49 to $4.99). Insider’s tip: For $9.99, you can try a bit of everything at the restaurant’s lunch buffet, Monday to Friday.

 

CHINESE

Bamboo Garden

1232 N.E. 163rd St., North Miami Beach; 305-945-1722

For tasty, fresh and authentic Chinese food, Bamboo Garden is an intelligent choice. Started by Paul Yan 24 years ago and aimed primarily at the local Chinese community, the restaurant is now a popular dining and takeout joint for people of all nationalities. The menu is packed with delicious Chinese dishes, but if you want to get really authentic, ask for the menu they give to the Chinese customers.

Real deal dishes: Bird Nest Seafood, a bird’s-nest-shaped bowl made of noodles and filled with seafood and vegetables ($18.95); Peking Duck, a two-course, hard-to-prepare meal of sliced duck served with pancakes and scallions ($35; order 24 hours in advance).

Insider’s tip: For real Chinese fried rice, ask for some “Young Chour.” It’s not on the menu, but Manager Arthur Pang says it’s lighter and healthier than regular fried rice.

 

KOREAN

Kyung Ju Restaurant

400 N.E. 167th St., North Miami Beach; 305-947-3838

This is one of only a handful of Korean restaurants in Miami, and it has a good selection of traditional foods. For meat lovers, there’s Korean barbecue, or Gui; or you can try various spicy soups, seafood and noodle dishes popular among Korean locals.

Real deal dishes: Dolsot Bibimbab, steamed rice and mixed vegetables in a heated stone pot ($13.95); Doeji Bulgoki, spicy, marinated thin-sliced pork on the barbecue ($16.95).

Insider’s tip: On weekdays, get the $10.95 lunch special, which includes miso soup, three vegetable dishes and barbecued meat of your choice.

 

African

 

Sheba’s Best Meat Platter features a little bit of everything, including Doro Wat (marinated chicken), Shrimp Tibs, Begalecha (lamb), Minchetabesh (sirloin) and Atakilt Wat (vegetable mix). Photo by Richard M. Brooks

ETHIOPIAN

Sheba Ethiopian Restaurant

4029 N. Miami Ave., Miami; 305-573-1819

If you really want something different and unique in South Florida, Sheba’s in the Design District is a must. Here you can sample real Ethiopian cuisine, served on traditional pancakes called injera. There are chicken, beef, lamb, seafood and plenty of vegetarian dishes. Sit at one of the elegant candlelit tables, or try out the Ethiopian mossob, or handwoven tables. Make sure you sample a glass of the sweet Sheba honey wine.

Real deal dishes: Doro Wat, Ethiopia’s national dish, made of marinated chicken stewed in spicy sauce ($9.50 to $21); Kitfo, a special delicacy made from tenderloin of beef served with a red chili powder sauce called mitmita — a real Ethiopian eats this raw, but you can ask for it cooked ($14 to $23).

Insider’s tip: For the full Ethiopian experience, and to impress owners Ogbe and Felitia Guobadia, eat the injera pancakes without knives or forks.

 

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